What a day ! Didn’t go according to plan at all. I’d hoped to ride to Faro and then on a bit further West before hopping on a train and coming home. Because there were only two trains in the afternoon, I had a bit of a schedule to hit, but it wasn’t challenging as I had three hours to get to Faro around 40km away. Even accounting for rough tracks and stopping to take photos and maybe coffee and cake I reckoned I’d be ok.
In hindsight there were signs from the very start that it was not going to be the best of days. Almost as soon as I was out of Tavira I hit rough tracks and I mean filling loosening rough, not just a dirt track. After about 5km I wasn’t making quick headway, but was still relaxed. The I hit my first obstacle which whilst lovely held me up for around 10-15 mins. The shepherd and his flock clearly weren’t in any hurry.

After what seemed like miles, they turned off and the shepherd greeted me with a cheery toothless smile and a “Bom Dia” . I guess I can’t complain he’s working and I’m not. So back to another bone shaking few kms before I hit tarmac. At least the Brompton was holding up well.
My joy at hitting tarmac was short lived, as in order to frustrate Brompton riders, the road builders had put cobbled rumble strips every few hundred metres.

Still there was a reward at the end of the road, I hit the coast or more accurately the lagoons which sit between land and the sea and form a huge National Park (Ria Formosa) which stretches pretty much from Faro to Tavira.


Some more smooth roads and then onto tracks again, but these were more to my liking lovely compacted sand and gravel which was easy to ride on. So we were cooking on gas now. What could possibly go wrong ?

So I stared at the bridge for a while deciding what to do. I tentatively tried walking on the beams. They seemed steady enough, but the handrail was ready to fall off. I decided today was not the day for a swim, so consulted the maps and made a detour. It wasn’t too bad, but I had to manhandle the bike over some pumping equipment to get back on track.

From here the trail took me right out in the lagoons, a combination of the gravel tracks and broadwalks provided some great riding.



I was starting to get a bit concerned about time, so started to peddle a bit harder. I was bouncing around a bit more than normal, but just assumed it was the poor surface, then I started to feel the rear wheel sliding slightly from side to side. I had a horrible feeling what it might be. Gingerly I reached back and squeezed the tyre. In the Bikeability lessons I teach, we tell the children the tyre should feel like a hard apple not squidgy bannana. This was not hard apple ! I put some more air in the tyre and convinced myself it would be ok, as indeed it was for about another 2k, before it started to get wobbly again. There was nothing for it but to change the tube.

So I found a convenient spot and got on with it. It’s the first time I’ve changed the tube on a Brompton, for those unfamiliar with these bikes, it’s not as straightforward as on a “normal” bike as you have to partially dismantle the gears, taking off the chain tensioner and part of the hub gears. As it happens, it went fairly smoothly, but it was another half hour gone. I was now running out of time, but would still be ok if I put the hammer down. It was 10km to Faro and all on roads, I’d had my three bits of bad luck so I’d be fine !
If only ! it wasn’t going to be my day. One of the gear leavers was coming loose. Looking carefully I could see on if the two retaining bolts wasn’t there. I guess two days of rough tracks had taken their toll. There was nothing much I could do, but check all the other bolts and tighten them and carry on.
By now I’d had enough, I decided a long lunch in Faro then train back to Tavira was in order. I’d then pop into local bike shop, to see if there was any chance the could help with a replacement bolt. Although this was a long shot as it wasn’t a standard size.
So I plonked myself down in a restaurant near the station and with 2.5 hours to the train had a leisurely 3 course lunch for €14.50 and very good it was too ! All was well in the world again



I’d downloaded a Portuguese train app, so sorting tickets and timetables wasn’t an issue. Bang on time the train appeared and on I got. I was glad I had the Brompton as folded it was easy to carry up the steps into the train. A full size touring bike would have been a pain. An uneventful journey back went really quickly, so quickly that when I looked at the time I realised the next stop would be Tavira. There were no signs at the station and my fellow travellers seemed unable or unwilling to answer my question as to which station we were at. So of course I got off and of course it was the wrong station. Still it was the station prior to Tavira and only 5 kms outside of town.
My enquiries at the bike shop were fruitless, so it’s back to the apartment for a refreshing cup of tea. Then I’ll get the cable ties out and secure the gear lever as best I can !