As today’s ride was heading for Monaco, I should apologise in advance for the Formula 1 focus of the post.
Just like a team manager I was hunched over weather reports, although unlike them I couldn’t afford spotters to tell me what weather was moving in, I had to rely on apps.
The apps told me there should be a break in the bad weather for a couple of hours. Enough time for me to ride to Monaco, have a quick cycle around the F1 circuit and hop on a train back. There was no decision for me on tyres, drying track or full on rain, I’d only brought one set.
Heading out the door, I was greeted by a very damp and fairly empty Promenade des Anglais, still even with dull skies the port and town looked spectacular. The route to Monaco took me up into the hills above Nice, before dropping down close to sea level then climbing again several times as the road made it’s way to the principality.
The beginning of the coast road is known as Boulevard Princesse Grace de Monaco, a tribute to Grace Kelly who lost here life in a car crash after losing control on the roads near her home. A timely reminder to ride carefully, especially as the roads were narrow with no cycle paths. Drivers were on the whole very considerate, so it wasn’t that stressful.
After quite a lot of huffing and puffing, I started to drop down towards Monaco. There was nothing spectacular about the area at all, in fact it was pretty shabby ! Suddenly though I turned into a shopping area and found myself in the town, with the 13th century Prince‘s Palace, home to Prince Albert towering over me.
Negotiating a few one way streets, brought me to the start finish straight for the Grand Prix and the start of my lap. Start box markings, still clearly visible in the bus lane, glamorous it was not. The next surprise was the climb past Beau Rivage towards the Casino, TV pictures do not do justice to how steep this is. It was the only time in the ride I had to use my smallest gear. (Viewing the photo full size gives a better idea)
Taking a right turn at the top and I was into Massenet and then onto Casino square. It was here that I was black flagged by the Monaco Police ! The road through the square is ok for cars to use (access to the Hotel de Paris and designer shops I guess) but definitely not for sandal wearing tourists on a folding bike. I played the innocent (stupid ) Englishman abroad card, when the gendarme politely asked me if it was my first time in Monaco, I knew I‘d get away with a reprimand. I should say at this point, the Police were pretty friendly/helpful (see later comments !)
Once out of sight of the Policeman, I mounted the bike and continued my lap, through Mirabeau Haute and then around the famous Hairpin, whose name changes on a regular basis – Loews, Grand Hotel, Station and currently known as Fairmont Hairpin – dropping down further I took the Mirabeau Bas corner at all of 10 mph, before my race was well and truly red flagged at Portier. Sadly my hopes of speeding through the tunnel, cutting the Nouvelle Chicane and racing onto Tabac through the swimming pool complex, Rascasse and finally Virage Antony Noghes before taking the chequered flag were not to be. Roadworks and Monaco‘s unnavigable one way system, put paid to that. All that was left for me to do was hang my head and slowly retrace my steps, taking care to walk through Casino square this time. My only view of the harbour from a vantage point at Massenet. Having seen first hand how narrow and twisty much of the circuit is, I have to marvel at those who throw cars around it at insane speeds.
While at Massenet, I took time to work out a route ( uphill of course) to the train station. Waiting to exit onto the main rd, I encountered yet another policeman. Seeing I was patiently waiting for a gap in the rather fast traffic, he chose his moment, stepped out into the road and stopped them so I could move off !
Eventually, found my way into the station. Bought a ticket and headed down to the platform which was pretty crowded. Within minutes of arriving a friendly announcement caused the platform to empty out. I couldn‘t see why as the Grasse train which takes you to Nice was still showing as due. Interrogating the SNCF app gave a clearer picture. I should have taken heed of the mess yesterday !
There was nothing for it, but to retrace my route back to Nice, did I mention by this time it was absolutely chucking it down ! My two hour dry window was definetely gone. The pain didn‘t end there though, rather than plot a return route on cycle.travel and upload to the GPS, I simply reversed the existing route. A schoolboy error, which my legs paid dearly for, as I was constantly frustrated by being directed the wrong way into one way systems, I ended up having to climb up into the heights of the town to find a way through the Monte Carlo labyrinth.
The ride back was in on and off rain and didn‘t feel as hard as the outward leg. Once back in Nice a hot shower followed by late lunch, left me feeling refreshed.
I can safely say that Monte Carlo is another place ticked off my list, that rather like Cannes I‘ve no desire to revisit. (Unless somebody offers me an all expenses paid trip to see the F1 ! ) Even then I‘d probably try and trade it in for a different venue.
The weather tomorrow is looking decidedly bad, with thunderstorms and high winds forecast. I‘d like to get out again, but there won‘t be any train assisted rides !
Steady Pedals 