I’d had my fill of history themed riding yesterday, so today was going to be a rural ride. Of course this is Berlin and history is all around, even where not expected. On the history front, I failed to mention that yesterday was the 80th anniversary of the start of the Battle of Berlin, where over 1,000,000 Soviet soldiers fought a fierce 3 day action at Seelow heights – the “Gates to Berlin”
My day commenced more leisurely with a train to Spandau, and yet another WW2 connection. Home for 30 years to Rudolf Hess, the prison in which he was kept is long gone, replaced with a shopping centre.
None if this is vaguely relevant to today, as I headed straight to the river for a waterside ride to Potsdam, once the home of German Emperors.
The ride mostly alongside the Havel river and lakes was very pleasant, hugging the shoreline for the most part, but with occasional detours through woodland and housing.
What I hadn‘t realised until I saw some memorial signs, was that I was in fact once again riding the wall trail. Except here there was no wall, just the icy cold waters of the Havel to mark the border. Some brave souls did make it across, but many more drowned or died on their way to hospital after they had been “rescued” by border guards.
The ride continued, and for the most part it was easy going, except for a couple of sections of very loose gravel and sand, which the tiny Brompton wheels didn’t like. Back on tarmac though and it wasn’t long before I hit Potsdam and a chance for lunch. I opted for a Vietnamese Noodle salad, as I felt I had definitely overdosed on the heavy German fare.
It was a good decision, just what I needed. I had however forgotten one thing about Germany. “Cash is King” , as I asked for the bill and proffered my card, I was met with a shake of the head and “No cards” or what I assumed was the German equivalent of that. Prising my wallet open a little, I looked down at the solitary €20 note and then towards the waitress. She indicated that would be fine and went off the produce a bill for €19.70 ! Needless to say, I was straight to an ATM to get more cash !
Before heading back to Berlin, I decided to do a quick tour of a couple of sights in Potsdam. The town itself was lovely, there seemed to be lots of old houses, but I suspect many are not original.
Potsdam has it’s own Brandenburg gate, and it was near there that I saw why the Germans are renown for their sense of style.
Just outside the town is the Sanssouci Park, home to Palace of the same name, together with many other buildings, fountains and follies. The park is huge, created by Frederick the Great to house his summer palace, it’s often described as the German Versailles (probably to annoy the French). Unfortunately, today it was a building site, with extensive renovation work going on. It is still impressive though. The photos really do not do it justice.
After this I had one more detour to make, a 16km loop would take me out towards Glienicke Bridge, co-star along with Tom Hanks and Mark Rylance in the film “Bridge of Spies” but very much the real deal, being the location for prisoner/spy swaps during the Cold War.
The route back to Potsdam, took me past some more unexpected history. Schloss Cecilienhof where Stalin, Roosevelt and Churchill shamelessly carved up post war Europe
There was one rather unexpected final find, which is truly bizzare, a small enclave of beautiful wooden Russian style dachas in parkland near the city centre.
Known as Alexandrowka the Russian Colony consists of thirteen houses. They were built between 1826 and 1827 on special wish of the former Prussian king, Friedrich Wilhelm III for members of his Russian military choir.
History and riding done for the day, I headed back to Berlin
Steady Pedals 